Sorry in advance for the “wordy” post BUT it might be helpful to you if you have struggled to find the most sustainable alternative to traditional interfacing, as I did.
Once I started making tote bags, I realized that I needed to use some sort of additional material to add durability and, in some cases structure, to each piece. It was obvious to me that I had to use some sort of interfacing but cringed at the thought because traditional interfacing hardly stays in tune with the guidelines that I set in place for myself. I vowed to use only: reclaimed, repurposed, vintage and organic materials in production. Traditionally interfacing can be found made in: polyester, nylon, Polyamide, among other materials and a lot of interfacing doesn’t even list what it’s made of. See my dilemma?
So I set off on a mission to figure this out and honestly I will not bored you with the long list of trails and tribulations. I will say that don’t even bother trying these: layering tons of fabric: it just makes the bags super bulky and may break a half dozen sewing machine needles; don’t use wooden dowels to structure a bag: it seemed like a good idea at the time but it was not and broke through the fabric and poked me in the side when I tried to use the bag; do not use batting for the whole bag without quilting at least one layer (like the lining only) because it will get all lumpy after washing. Mind you, I only put myself through all of this experimenting after a long search for organic cotton, sew-in interfacing and came out with nothing.
I worried that I might have to break down and use traditional interfacing to keep the quality of my product high. So once I started shopping around for interfacing again I found that there were actually 100% cotton interfacing. It was fusible but after all of this I determined it was the lesser of two evils and decided to give it a try! I even found organic cotton interfacing but the company only have a limited supply and had bought it 10 years earlier. So I ordered a little of both and what a difference!! I would HIGHLY recommend the 100% cotton fusible interfacing is what anyone use if they know they have to use some sort of light interfacing, why not use the most natural option?!
So here is what I use:
Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex Woven Interfacing (made in the USA). It is 100% cotton, no manufactured fibers, and it comes in white and black. It is fusible so it won’t shift around when you are sewing, making life a lot easier. I pre-shrink mine when I first get it by soaking it in lukewarm water for 10 minutes and then line drying it. My bags are so much more durable now, I am SO happy with my decision! I bought mine at Joann’s Fabric.
I also do use batting in some of my smaller projects like the gift bag I am coming out with in the next week or so. It adds stability to the bottom of the bag and I can use it in ornaments and such also. I plan on experimenting with batting in a clutch I’m going to try out after the holiday season is over. So if that works, I will add it to this post in a few months. I use Bamboo batting which is 50% bamboo and 50% organic cotton and Cotton Classic Batting made from 100% Organic cotton. Both are made by Fairfield and made in CT, USA. I also have to pre-shrink the batting which is the same process as the interfacing: soak in lukewarm water for 10 minutes and then line dry. I bought mine at Joann’s Fabric.
I hope this saves you some time if you are in the same position that I was over the last few months. The cotton interfacing won’t give you a stiff bag, which luckily that wasn’t what I was going for, but it will add a lot of durability to your project and in my case I want to be able to offer bags that are one of a kind and sustainable in how they can be used for a long, long time! Being able to buy one bag and use it for years is much more sustainable then buying a new one every few months.
Happy sewing to all of you and if you have any alternative to traditional interfacing that you live by and want to share then leave a comment! Thanks!
~Katherine~
About Reclaimed Threads: Reclaimed Threads is a sustainable bag company launched by Katherine DeSantis. Katherine is a 20-something entrepreneur combined her love of being creative and sustainably conscious to form the company. Every bag is handmade by Katherine from reclaimed, vintage and organic/sustainable materials. There are a variety of style bags and products to chose from! Her shop is at: www.reclaimedthreads.etsy.com.
Reclaimed Threads 